Written and translated by Henry, TML
在1980年代末期，國軍考量中共的戰術彈道飛彈已具備避開大氣層下防空火網的能力，且力士型防空飛彈屆齡、天弓飛彈系統部署期程無法有效填補空隙，極力向美方籌購「愛國者防空飛彈」，並列為美華會議軍售採購項目。美方則於1993年2月同意出售「改良型防空飛彈系統」(MADS, Modified Air Defense System)，由陸軍建案購入3套愛國者二型(PAC-2 Plus)系統及200枚飛彈，於1996年開始交貨，1997年1月陸續運返。(資料來源：中華民國國防部網頁https://www.mnd.gov.tw/Publish.aspx?cnid=3257&p=71094；「Y2K國軍武裝報告書(下)」第270頁)
In late 1980s, facing the threat from People's Liberation Army's ballistic missiles capable of avoiding air defense grid in the endoatmosphere and their own shortcomings like obsolete Nike Hercules missile system and insufficient deployment of newly developed Skybow missile system, the ROC (Taiwan) armed forces pushed hard to acquire Patriot missile system from the US, and prioritized such requirement in the annual bilateral FMS meetings. The US agreed to sell MADS (Modified Air Defense System) to Taiwan in February 1993, and the ROC Army was entrusted with the acquisition to purchase 3 sets of PAC-2 (Patriot Advanced Capability -2) Plus missile system with 200 missiles. The delivery began in 1996, and from January 1997 Taiwan counterpart began to receive components of such system. (Source: https://www.mnd.gov.tw/Publish.aspx?cnid=3257&p=71094; "Military Hardware of ROC Armed Forces Land-Based Systems," ISBN 9578902298, p. 270)
戰鷹公司於2016年3月17日在官方臉書上登載1/35愛國者二型防空飛彈系統模型完成相片，模型組件包括M983重型增程機動戰術卡車(HEMTT, Heavy Expanded Mobility Tactical Truck)，M901發射架、M860拖板車與1枚MIM-104型愛二型飛彈。不久各模型通路就有現貨販售，價格在2800元上下。接到友人交付代工的組件時不禁一愣，這盒子真大，組裝完成一定壯觀。盒面左下角有「小號手」圖示，顯示這模型組件是「小號手」生產的，戰鷹則加上國軍型別的樹脂改套與水貼，重新包裝上市。
AFV Club (Hobby Fan Trading Co., Ltd.) of Taiwan wrote a post on Facebook on 17th March 2016 for a completed 1/35 miniature of PAC-2 Missile System. The model includes M983 HEMTT (Heavy Expanded Mobility Tactical Truck), M901 Launch Station, M860 Semi-trailer, and 1 MIM-104 missile body. Before long, hobby shops islandwide were seeing these new kits on their shelves, and the tag price per kit is roughly TWD 2,800 (approx. USD 88, shopping not included). When I received this kit as an outsource project from my fellow, I was quite amazed by its size, and assumed the model would be magnificent once it is done. The lower left corner of the upper box art has shown a symbol of Trumpeter, revealed the sprues of the kit are made by this manufacturer from the Chinese Mainland. AFV Club simply adds some aftermarket resin parts and decals to repackage them for interested markets.
愛國者防空飛彈系統除了包括上述模型的組件外，另有AN/MSQ-104接戰控制中心、AN/MPQ-53相位陣列雷達、OE-349天線站、AN/MRC-137通訊中繼站等多項裝備，完整裝備表與尺寸皆可在網上查閱。(資料來源：全球安全網頁 http://www.globalsecurity.org/military/library/policy/army/fm/3-01-11/ch5.htm)
Aside from the models presented in the kit, the actual PAC-2 missile system contains a lot more major components, such as AN/MSQ-104 Engagement Control Station, AN/MPQ-53 Phased Array Radar, OE-349 Antenna Mast Group (AMG), AN/MRC-137 Communications Relay Group (CRG), etc. All its equipments and dimensions can be found from the internet (Source: http://www.globalsecurity.org/military/library/policy/army/fm/3-01-11/ch5.htm)
「小號手」另有1/35比例的M901發射架與MPQ-53雷達的套裝組件上市，1/35比例的M983卡車則是單獨出售。
Trumpeter is selling another kit of M901 Launch Station and MPQ-53 Radar in 1/35 scale. M983 truck is also available, and sold separately.
動手前要詳閱說明書，看看手頭上的工具、耗材、漆料是否足夠。說明書有44頁；為了方便查閱，我先掃瞄存檔，轉存在iPad上以便隨時檢索。接著要決定塗裝；這款愛二型模型附有兩種塗裝：一為標準軍綠色(FS34079)，另一為叢林迷彩；因為有很多零件在組裝前就須先噴塗；要是先安裝再噴，有些角落恐無法上色。愛二型飛彈系統是國軍防空火力的主要裝備之一，配合國防展演、國防知性之旅以及陸官校開放等活動，已有不少相關照片在網上流傳。軍綠色是常見塗裝，迷彩則少見。網上有關迷彩塗裝的照片缺少發射架的俯視圖(應該還沒人敢飛四軸機到陳展裝備上向下拍攝吧?)，而且模型上附的國軍迷彩塗裝表與實物相去甚遠，為安全起見，還是直噴軍綠色為宜，我使用的是郡氏C309硝基漆，前後買了5瓶。如果要做美軍的迷彩塗裝，郡氏另有北約戰車色料(盒號CS664，有TC10銅綠色、TC11皮革褐、TC12瀝青黑等3色)成盒出售，要噴完全套組件可能要用到2盒。
主要參考照片來源：
1. https://www.flickr.com/photos/yuchulien/sets/72157656704243661/with/20052782020/
2. http://picssr.com/tags/%E6%84%9B%E5%9C%8B%E8%80%85%E9%A3%9B%E5%BD%88
3. http://ff1073.pixnet.net/blog/post/27770193
主要參考影片來源：
1. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HfLxOvaLZho
2. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M_1EZhAqEIA
3. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uQNCA90bUxM
4. https://vimeo.com/154412153
Before kicking off, one shall read the instruction manual to see whether tools, expendables, and paints are sufficient. The manual contains 44 pages, and I photo scanned and saved it in my iPad for the convenience of future review. After going over the pages, one shall decide with which paint scheme to go along. The kit provides two schemes: one for standard military green (FS34079); another for jungle camouflage (bronze green, leather brown, and tar black). Many undersized parts have to be painted before attaching to larger assemblies because some gaps, corners, and even cul-de-sacs would not be reached for applying paints once you glue them beforehand. PAC-2 missile system is a major air defense asset for the ROC Armed Forces, and there are plenty of relevant pictures, taken during open house events in military bases, installations, and Army academy, circulating on the internet. Its military green scheme is the most commonly seen, and camo one is much less. In addition, one may not get a top-down view picture on the camo missile canisters from the web (I assumed no one so far dares to fly a quadcoptor over the equipment on show to take photos), not to mention that the camo scheme provided by the manual is far more different from the actual one. For the sake of caution, military green is a plausible alternative. I chose Gunze Sanyo Incorporated (GSI) C309 acrylic paint for the scheme, and bought five bottles back and forth. If US camo scheme is selected, the GSI issues a pack of NATO army vehicle colors (pack number: CS664 with TC10 "Bronze Green," TC11"Leather Brown," and TC12 "Tar Black"), and one may need two packs to apply for the kit.
Major photo references:
1. https://www.flickr.com/photos/yuchulien/sets/72157656704243661/with/20052782020/
2. http://picssr.com/tags/%E6%84%9B%E5%9C%8B%E8%80%85%E9%A3%9B%E5%BD%88
3. http://ff1073.pixnet.net/blog/post/27770193
Major video references:
1. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HfLxOvaLZho
2. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M_1EZhAqEIA
3. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uQNCA90bUxM
4. https://vimeo.com/154412153
這套組件讓我首次接觸蝕刻件製作技巧。實物上的踩踏走道、電源散熱窗、置物(輪擋)箱、排氣筒護罩等皆以蝕刻件呈現。為了製作順遂，我增購美國「小店」(The Small Shop)生產的蝕刻件工具。購買前上網做做功課，大陸優速達也有生產蝕刻片加工台鉗，價格低廉(但也索價上千)；田公公出品的是長嘴鉗。後來到模型店洽詢才知，陸製的工具夾不緊，折彎時若零件滑動，要喬回來可就麻煩了。所以就狠下心，砸了等同田公公1/32比例F-16模型的費用，帶了「又抓又折」(Hold and Fold)加工台鉗回家，還要忐忑面對老婆，解釋空空如也的皮夾。
This kit gave me the first exposure to handling photo etched (PE) parts. Actual walkways, ventilation blinds, wheel chokes compartment, and exhaust pipe cover are all presented in the form of PE parts. In order to deal with the parts smoothly, I purchased a piece of PE tool from The Small Shop, US. Before bringing in mine, I browsed the web to do some research, and found out that the U-Star from Mainland China is selling cheaper PE tools (unit price well over TWD 1,000, approx. USD 31), and Tamiya from Japan is offering long-nose pliers, with many other small workshops offering similar tools. After consulting with a local hobby shop, I was told the cheaper ones, especially those from Mainland China, couldn't securely fasten the PE parts in place. If you are bending the PE parts and suddenly they slide sideways, they may render crooked results, causing further troubles to make corrections. Then, my mind was set, paid a price equivalent to a Tamiya 1/32 F-16 model to bring back "Hold and Fold (5-speed)," and was quite uneasy to explain to my wife why my wallet went empty so soon.
第一步：組件檢查與清洗
The First Step: Check and Clean the Parts
別太相信生產廠商的品質。我曾買過美國Monogram大廠F-18模型，座艙框架灌料不足，少了一邊，要花很多精神用改造膠板重製。這次是別人交製的模型，更不能有閃失，所有組件拆封後拍照存檔，與說明書零件表核對一下有無缺件或瑕疵件。「小號手」這套組件品質的確不錯，沒有什麼差勁的瑕疪。戰鷹隨附的樹脂改套差強人意：M983卡車尾部支撐電源線的桿子後傾變形，桿頭的電源線套圈太小，質材太脆易斷；我本要用吹風機加熱喬回來，結果弄巧成拙，斷了，自己重製一個。車上的M860拖板車的備胎，離形時的湯口多餘部位去除後，原處當然是沒胎紋的，這個胎如果是落地使用的話，還可將該處轉向地面遮掉，放在卡車上的備胎處可就四面皆空，無處可逃了。所以要斤斤計較的話，那就與M860的落地胎對換，或是自刻胎紋了。對換有麻煩，要切組件上的輪轂，貼在備胎的輪圈上才能用；所幸，這套組件上有多餘的輪圈供使用，有閒的模友可以試試。
Don't be overconfident about the product quality of manufacturers. I bought a F/A-18A Hornet model of Monogram, a big US manufacturer at the time, long ago, and part of the windshield frame (or pane) was missing because of poor material injection. It required a lot of efforts to rebuild one out of Tamiya pla-plates. This PAC-2 kit was a project for my fellow, it surely cannot fail. All the parts within the sprues were shot and saved in specific folders, and were checked with the parts list from the manual to see if there are missing or faulty parts. Trumpeter has done a wonderful job on the quality of the kit with no lousy flaws found; on the contrary, resin parts provided by AFV Club are just above average. The crispy and fragile stick to hold the electric cables on the aft section of M983 was leaning backwards a bit with a too small fastening ring. At first, I was going to use hair dryer to rectify the problem, and it couldn't sustain my clumsy treatment and went broken. Then, I couldn't help but rebuild one. As for the spare tire for M860 semi-trailer, once the excess part of the resin tire was removed, it was left with a no-tread mark. If the tire is fitted to the trailer, one can move the mark towards the ground to conceal it. However, it is fitted to the top of the M983 mid section, there is nowhere to hide. If detailing is everything, one may switch it with the rubber one attached to M860 or scribe the tread by oneself. Switching might well be troublesome, one has to cut the hub from the parts to attach to the rim on that resin tire. Luckily, there are excessive parts for wheel sets in the kit. If one has time to kill, try it out.
模型組件在塑料灌注前都會添加氟系或矽類離型劑，讓塑料成形後，順利從模具上剝離。離型劑本身是油脂性、有潤滑的作用，若將未經清洗的組件噴塗，漆料是抓不上去的。離型劑用洗碗精一類的清潔劑就可洗淨。清點完組件後，將浴室洗手檯加水半滿，到廚房拿洗碗精就可以上手了。清洗時別用菜瓜布洗刷，很多組件是很精細的，刷斷了，心也碎了。何況菜瓜布會傷害塑料表面，用手搯水、輕輕撫摸就好(起雞皮疙瘩了)，洗完用蓮蓬頭沖沖，移至通風處晾乾，隔天就可施工。
When polystyrene material is injected into the mould, normally fluorine-based or silicon-based release agent is applied so as to detach the molded items easily and smoothly. The agent is lipidic with kind of grease in nature. If one airbrushes or paints the molded items without first rid them of residual agent on their surface, the paint simply cannot hold. Household dishwashing detergent comes in handy to clean the agent. After checking and counting the parts of the sprues, I went to the bathroom, and turned on the facet to allow the water to fill the washing basin half full. Then, I went to the kitchen to bring in the detergent to begin washing the parts. Don't use a scourer to scrub the parts. Some parts are quite tiny and delicate. Modeling enthusiast's heart can be easily shattered once the parts are damaged. To use scourer or scouring pad during washing can leave a lot of scrubbed marks on the surface of the parts. Instead, gentle touch by one's hands would do (goose bumps might show, don't they?) Then, I used showerhead to spray to remove all bubbles from the parts, and moved them to well ventilated place under the shade to dry. Next day, the second step began.
第二步：階段組裝；打磨與噴塗
The Second Step: Sanding, Airbrushing and Painting
小心駛得萬年船；魔鬼就在細節裡。依說明書按圖索驥應該就能順遂完成了吧，可是繪製說明書的人未必是與你我一般的模型愛好者，說明書以完成組裝為目的，不盡然從愛好者的角度來編繪(這就是為何塗裝表永遠都是放在最後，這不是要製作者是完成組裝再噴塗嗎?)。這是一套精密組件，很多小組件拼湊成大組件，再上到主要組件上，就跟汽車生產線作業類似，應該沒人廠商會將車子拼好後，再噴內裝的漆料吧。
A little wariness prevents great weariness; the devil is in detail. With caution and attention to the trivial details, the model will be vividly rendered. Following the manual to assemble the parts step by step shall be a safe bet, isn't it? However, the author for that manual won't be necessarily an enthusiast like you and me. The purpose of the manual is to help buyers to build the model, and it may not be written from the perspective of an enthusiast (That's partly the reason why the color schemes always come in last few pages. Does that mean we have to complete assembling process before painting?) This delicate model comes with tiny pieces, attached to larger parts, and then to major assemblies. The overall process is similar to that of the automobile production lines, and I believe that no auto company would paint the cabin when the car is well assembled. 
前文提到決定塗裝，決心下達後，就可在必要的組件完成時逐步噴塗上色；在說明書上做做筆記也有幫助，這本說明書繪製品質很優，小組件完成時，有須要噴塗上色的提示，按部就班應該不會出錯。
As previously mentioned, once the painting scheme is decided, one may airbrush or brush paint parts in due time. Taking notes on the manual is also helpful. This is a quality manual, one shall not make mistakes if the steps are kept accordingly.
打磨是考驗耐心與毅力的過程，以前都用田公公的400、600、1000號砂紙，現在有太多選項可用了，特力屋有更廉價、大張的同號砂紙，或是打磨棒(大陸優速達的打磨棒既便宜，又能輕鬆上手)，銼刀、電動雕刻器、電動散打器等，甚至有時旅館附贈的修面組中修指甲的打磨棒也很好用。砂紙可切成小塊，方便作業就好。與飛機模型不同的是，地面車輛沒有飛機朦皮上這麼多的蓋板。飛機模型製作時，打磨格外費時費力，組件分(合)模線如果跨過蓋板，打磨後蓋板紋路消失，就要重刻，否則細節就顯現不出了。這套組件的蓋板紋路不多，而且組件的分模線或組合線多半設計在稜角上，省了不少打磨上的麻煩。組件從框架剪下後，黏接處打磨平整與對應組件黏合前先要試組，確定對接良好，減少打磨的困難。
Sanding process is a grindstone to hone one's patience and perseverance (sounds serious?) I used to put Tamiya's #400, #600, #1000 sanding papers into practice, but nowadays one has too many alternatives to choose from. B&Q (Block & Quayle plc) is offering much sizable and cheaper sanding papers. Sanding sticks (those produced by U-STAR from Mainland China are low-priced and handy), fine fliers, electric engravers, electric pensander, and even those manicure sticks provided by hotels are all useful. the paper can be cut into useful sizes depending on the surfaces one has to work. Different from the aircraft models, ground vehicles do not have a lot of access panels. Sanding is especially time and energy consuming for A/C models. If the parting line of two joining parts goes across panel line or lines, it or them may disappear after sanding, and one should rescribe those missing lines to reveal the details. This model doesn't have a lot of panels to worry about, and parting lines are well concealed following the contours of the parts. When one detaches the parts from the sprues, test fit is required to make sure the pieces glued or attached together perfectly so as to lower the difficulty of sanding.
我在組裝時的黏著主要用田公的「特薄接著劑」(Extra Thin Cement)，這是像溶劑一般的接著劑，延展性高，以溶解PE塑料來達到接著的效果。戰鷹附的樹脂套件就要使用快乾膠了。
While assembling the parts, I was mainly using Tamiya's Extra Thin Cement, which is as thin as a typical solution or spirit, and can melt the polystyrene parts to coalesce them. Those resin parts provided by AFV club requires super glue, which is a kind of instant adhesive.
組件黏合後，若有接縫就要用補土。這套模型品質不錯，用到膏狀補土的機率不高；郡氏出品的Mr. Dissolved Putty(液態補土)更能有效補縫，乾涸後較不會潰縮，且易於打磨加工。
Putty is applied to a seam or gap arising from two parts glued together. The kit is a quality product, and I didn't apply much paste-like putty in the process. Mr. Dissolved Putty, a new product from GSI, is an effective liquid putty, which is less prone to collapse (or shrink in size)and easier to work on.
第三步：上底漆；展開噴塗
The Third Step: Applying Primer and Airbrushing
不是所有組件都需要上底漆。上底漆最主要的目的是檢查表面瑕疵，以及提高噴漆的發色。組件打磨後有些細微的刮痕或坑洞，在光源不足或環境對比色調接近的情況下較難以凸顯，等到噴塗後才會發現。必須要上底漆的組件通常是在模型外觀上易於觀察的部位。像這套愛國者組件，M901發射架的飛彈箱、M860拖板車平板結構與4具支撐架、M983卡車的外觀都是必須噴上底漆的部位。我因為要呈現這組模型在M983卡車底盤細節上的用心，建議友人製框時底部加塊玻璃，所以我將底盤組件也都上了底漆。聽起來好像全都上了吧，其實有些小的部件，或是用深色漆料噴塗的組件，例如發動機，我就省了這道工序。我主要使用的底漆為郡氏出品的Mr. Surfacer 1000號。
Not all the parts need to be applied with primer. Priming is aimed primarily at exposing the surface defects and improve the adhesion of top coats. Some parts after sanding will leave minor scratches or dents on their surfaces, and sometimes it is hard to show them under the shade or in a low contrast setting. One doesn't see them until they are airbrushed most of the time. Normally, the parts which are easier to observe when finished need to be primed. Take this kit as an example. Those assemblies required to be primed are as follows: missile canisters on M901 launch station, flat deck and four struts of M860, and the facade of M983. I recommended my fellow to lay a piece of mirror underneath the model to present the details of the chassis, which are also primed, of these two vehicles. It sounds like all the parts are applied, aren't they? Deep down, some smaller parts, or those to be painted with dark colors, such as engine assemblies, are excluded in this process. There are a lot of primers to select from. I mainly use Mr. Surfacer 1000 from GSI.
我使用兩支噴槍執行噴漆；其一為台製的HD130，口徑為0.3mm，由要用來噴底漆之用；其二為過去駐外時購得的兩動式SG A180K，口徑0.25mm，可因應大部分的噴漆作業。我另外也擁有幾支不同形式的噴筆，因應不同組件所需。
I was using two airbrushes to paint the model: one is a 0.3mm HD-130, made in Taiwan, for applying primer; another is a 0.25mm SG a180K, purchased in South Africa, for major painting. I have several airbrushes at my disposal so as to deal with different conditions and parts.
第四步：能改則改；呈現細節
The Fourth Step: Modifying as needed with details in mind
模型製作的樂趣，不光是過程，而對於實物考證與逼真、寫實的程度也是模型愛好者發揮專業之處，這也是軍事模型與天馬行空的科幻模型大不同之處。以前有位友人詢及我製作的P-51型戰機上的黑白相間條紋意義為何，我頓時發窘語塞。事後查了相關資料，才知道這是二戰期間盟軍進攻諾曼第時所用的標識。做了模型，也應該對其背景有所瞭解，至少以後交流時才有話題，不是嗎?
The fun of modeling is not only about the process, but also the vivid portraying of the actual objects or scenes with certain research efforts and expertise on the part of the modelers. It constitutes the major difference between models of military objects and those of scientific fictions. Years ago, I was asked by an acquaintance about the black and white stripes on the fuselage and wings of my 1/48th P-51 Mustang, and I was quite embarrassed and not able to answer. After consulting with some reference books, I knew that were the invasion stripes painted on Allied aircraft while invading Normandy in WII. As an avid modeler, one should know the background of one's own models; therefore one can at lease exchange some topics with fellow modelers (not trade barbs, ok?).
這套愛二型組件應該是屬於早期型。我國使用M860拖板車上的柴油發電機箱外觀有兩種型別，模型使用的是早期型；拖板車兩側控制箱下方的工具箱也有所不同，模型呈現的同樣是舊型(把手在下)，新型已將把手置中，兩側有黑色防撞護條。M901發射架彈箱下的電源箱也有不同；支撐喞筒另有加裝偽裝布套。
This kit is supposed to depict the early PAC-2 missile system. There are two different appearances for the case of diesel generator on M860. The one in this kit is considered as the early model. The toolboxes below the control cases on either side of the flat deck are also different with the earlier one having handles on the lower front of the box and current one having handles on the center. And the current one has black fenders on either side. The power units on the lower ends of the canisters on M901 are also having two types. Currently, the hydraulic suspension struts for missile canisters are canvas covered.
我能夠做的，就是修改工具箱(單邊，左側工具箱尺寸稍小，不易修改，維持原狀)及加裝偽裝套。改工具箱就要先從原件切下把手，再將兩側加貼改造板修整。另外，拖板車兩側4具支撐架內的液壓唧筒的管線以釣魚線製出，以增加細節。
The modifications I'd done were to fix one of the toolboxes (I left the smaller one on the port side intact because of more complex processes involved), and to add the canvas covers. I cut off the handles from the original toolbox, and used pieces of Ply-plate to fill the cavities left and to the sides to make the fenders. In addition, I used fishing wire to act as conduits inside 4 struts of the flat deck of M860.
比對網路上國軍使用的M983卡車，也有兩種不同外觀。這款卡車是由美國Oshkosh防衛公司生產，目前最新型別為M983 A4型愛國者拖車，模型所用的是國軍採購初期使用的A1型。Oshkosh聽來耳熟是吧，因為這也是個童裝品牌，原來這是美國威斯康辛州人口不過6萬多人的小城市名字。Oshkosh防衛公司即位於威州，其生產的各式軍用車輛也有不少愛用者，遑論模型愛好者了。這卡車組件相當精細，製作時已參考網上圖片，直做即可；我僅用錫箔紙貼在後照鏡上增加真實感。前文所述電線撐桿重製就不再重提了。值得一提的是前風檔玻璃與駕艙兩邊A柱玻璃的封膠，我可是用放大鏡用漆筆沾C33無光澤黑，慢慢塗上的。這幾天熱，不得不開電風扇；開著，又會影響手的穩定，只好關掉。這幾條黑線是我滿身大汗，雙手抖個不停地完成的。製作座艙時，我也參考不少網路圖片以增加逼真感。年紀大了，要戴上放大鏡才能將細節塗出。
In comparison with photos on the web, there are two different models of M983 in the inventory of the ROC Armed Forces. The truck is manufactured by Oshkosh Defense, a US company, and the latest model shall be M983 A4 while the kit offers A1 model. The name "Oshkosh" sounds familiar, right? It is also a brand name for kid's garment, and it is a toponym in Wisconsin, US with a population of merely 60,000. Oshkosh Defense is located there, and it has quite a lot of customer for its military vehicles and model enthusiasts as well. The model kit offers great details, and one can build it straight out-of-box. I referred to internet photos during the process, and added only foil paper to the mirrors to imitate the real ones. Rebuilding the stick to hold the electric cables has been mentioned above. The only thing I have to mentioned is the sealants on the panes of windshields and A-shaped side windows. I wore a pair of magnifying visors to trace the lines, and painted them with C33 flat black by a extra fine brush pen. On these dog days, I had to turn on the electric fan, but I could hardly stabilize my hands with the fan on. I had to turn it off during the process, and there black lines were done with me swearing all over and my hands shaking endlessly. The cabin was painted according to the photos online. I am coming of age now, and I had to wear such visors to paint all the details.
第五步 上水貼；製作場景
The Fifth Step: Applying Decals and Making Diorama
行百里者半九十。這最後十里最能考驗模型製作者的耐心與毅力。水貼紙本身有光澤表面，會反光。我用小剪刀儘量依圖案邊緣剪下，用鑷子泡水15秒後就可起鍋上菜，貼上模型了。貼上時，用水貼膠固定，棉花棒吸去多餘水份，貼完後視情況再噴上無光澤漆，減低反光情況。
A journey 90 percent completed is still only half done. The last 10 percent is a testament to modeler's patience and perseverance. Water-slide decals have a glossy surface, which will shine to cause a sensible contrast to the adjacent colors. I used a pair of petit scissors to cut out the decal to be applied as close as its fringes. Then, I placed the decal on the surface of water in a small saucer for 10 seconds. After that, I picked up the decal, and detached it from its carrier film and positioned it to the surface by a pair of tweezers. Decal solution was applied to hold it firmly on the surface, and I used cotton swabs to absorb excessive water. After it was done, I would airbrush a flat base coat over the surface as the conditions allowed to decrease the shininess of the decals.
說明書上MIM104型飛彈的塗裝與網路圖片有出入，我參考其生產公司網站圖片來施作噴漆，應該不會有錯。另外友人請我製作成飛彈發射狀態，我參考網路上製作噴煙效果及愛二型實彈發射的影片, 先前還異想天開地去買醫用棉花來做，結果其質材過細，無法蓬鬆成形。最後查到延平北路1段的手工材料店有售填充用的仿絲棉(人造化學纖維，俗稱PP棉)，1包60元，可用很久哩!我先用鐵絲製成支撐架，將棉花捏揉成形後，再噴漆上色，最後用頭髪的定形噴霧來定形。
The paint scheme for the MIM-104 provided by the manual is inaccurate with online sources; therefore, I referred to a photo on the website of its manufacture to paint the missile. It was supposed to be accurate. My fellow asked me to build the diorama as a missile launched from its canister, and I had to browse more online photos and video clips to create the smoke for this diorama. At first, I bought a pack of medical cotton to work on; in fact, it was too fine to be fluffy. Then, I found out that some handicraft stores on the first section of Yanping North Road, selling polypropylene stuffing, which is a kind of artificial fiber, and can be used to form a smoke effect. It comes TWD 60 per bag, and can be used for any handicraft for quite a while. I used iron wire to make a bracket to support the stuffing, airbrushed it by referring to the photos, and then used hairspray to hold it in position.
飛彈射出彈箱時會穿破彈箱頭罩，頭罩破裂後成不規則狀散開，我僅用改造板切成四個鈍角三角形來模擬。
When the missile is launched, it will penetrate the forward flythrough cover of its canister, and the cover will be shattered. I merely used four obtuse-triangled pla-plate pieces to depict the diorama.
接近完成前就先訂製玻璃框了，我訂製的是上罩式紅木邊玻璃框，預留邊緣空間後之尺寸為75 cm (長) X 30 cm (寬) x 30 cm (高)。以下就是完成圖片了，汗如雨下的過程終於結束了，自我成就感百分百。
A case was ordered before the model was close to be completed. It was paned glass hood with red wood frame. Considering the setup of demonstrating the model, the dimension is 75 cm in length, 30 cm in width, and 30 cm in height. The photos are show as follows. It was a hardworking but very rewarding process, and I felt a great excitement and accomplishment when everything was done.
網路上已有愛國者防空飛彈的連級與營級作戰手冊(FM 44-85, 請參考：http://www.ausairpower.net/PDF-A/FM-44-85-Patriot-Battalion-and-Battery-Operations.pdf)，有興趣瞭解愛國者防空飛彈系統操作的同好，可下載閱讀。
If one is interested in the operations of the Patriot missile system, there is a weblink to its operational manual at battalion and battery levels as follows: http://www.ausairpower.net/PDF-A/FM-44-85-Patriot-Battalion-and-Battery-Operations.pdf
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